To make the bourride, warmth the oil in a large pan. Add the onion, leek, fennel, garlic and orange peel and fry gently without colouring for about 5 minutes. Add the tomato, bay leaf, thyme, fish stock and salt and pinch of saffron. To make the aioli, finely chop the garlic cloves with ½ tsp sea salt, mashing together on the board.

Instead, make a giant batch with the summer glut and preserve in sterilised jars. To make 600g, warmth 50ml olive oil in a heavy-bottomed pan, add a big, finely diced, sweet white onion and cook gently for no …